Eugene Souleiman created two contrasting hairstyles for ERDEM’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, combining masculine, windswept texture with soft, romantic detailing.
Published:Presented at London Fashion Week in September 2026, the hair direction for ERDEM SS27 explored the same contrast between masculinity and femininity, precision and dishevelment seen throughout the collection.
Inspired by Barbette, the American aerialist who performed as a woman and descended from the trapeze as a man, Souleiman created two opposing looks rather than attempting to blend the two aesthetics together.
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The first style was inspired loosely by 1940s Hollywood men’s hairstyles, but with a more dishevelled, lived-in finish.
The hair was given a deep side parting and combed away from the face using KEVIN.MURPHY HAIR.RESORT at the roots. It was then left to air-dry before being disrupted with a hairdryer, breaking up the initial polished finish and creating a windswept texture.
Souleiman described the look as appearing as though the hair had originally been carefully groomed before being caught by the wind. He was particularly interested in the contrast of slightly masculine hair on women, creating a look that felt refined while retaining a tougher quality.
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The second style provided a softer counterpoint, combining a sharply defined centre parting with loose, textured strands.
KEVIN.MURPHY HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY was applied through the mid-lengths and ends to encourage natural texture, while a hard centre part created a clean and sophisticated front.
Along the parting, individual strands were sprayed with SESSION.SPRAY FLEX and worked with a small tong to create a fine, hazy texture. Rather than smoothing the strands completely into place, pieces were pressed back into the hair, leaving flyaways visible and creating a soft, almost static effect.
The lengths were then gathered into a low ponytail and tightly braided at the nape. POWDER.PUFF was worked through the braid to introduce a dry, matte texture before the braid was gently pulled apart to create a fuller, softer shape.
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KEVIN.MURPHY Master Caroline Kells says the key to both looks was creating texture without making the hair feel heavy or overly styled.
The amount and combination of products were adjusted according to each model’s natural hair texture. Slipperier hair was prepared with HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY to create grip, while HAIR.RESORT and ROUGH.RIDER were used where additional control was required. POWDER.PUFF was then used to add texture and maintain a lightweight finish.
Kells also emphasised the importance of maintaining hair condition underneath matte styling products. Moisturising conditioner and a leave-in treatment such as UN.TANGLED can be used to provide hydration before applying the styling products. The matte finish is then created by changing how light reflects from the hair, rather than through dehydrating it.
The contrasting hairstyles were deliberately paired with the collection’s clothing: feminine garments were styled with the more masculine hair, while traditionally masculine silhouettes were accompanied by the romantic braid.
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More Information:
London Fashion Week, Erdem, @kevinmurphyuk, @eugenesouleiman
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