Winter often sees your clients full of questions about how best to care for their hair and scalp as cooler conditions play havoc. Whether it is exposure to cold, wind and rain, fluctuating humidity levels, indoor heating, seasonal stress, dietary changes, hot showers, high-heat blow-drying or merely friction from scarves and coats, hair ends up damaged static and plagued with scalp discomfort.
Here, Anabel Kingsley outlines the ideal winter haircare routine to guide you through thoughtful and informed conversations with your clients.
Itchy Scalp Relief
- Maintain a consistent washing routine. Clients should wash their hair as often as needed to keep the scalp clean and comfortable, as the ideal frequency will vary depending on individual scalp needs. Daily shampooing is fine if your client wishes to wash daily and doesn’t use high heat to style afterwards.
- Choose a suitable anti-dandruff shampoo. If flaking, itching or dandruff is contributing to scalp discomfort, recommend an anti-dandruff shampoo that is appropriate for their hair type and texture. Philip Kingsley Flaky/Itchy Scalp Shampoo for fine to medium textured hair, and Flaky/Itchy Hydrating Curl Shampoo for coiled or curly hair types.
- Massage gently, but thoroughly, when shampooing. Encourage clients to focus on cleansing the whole scalp, using the pads of their fingertips rather than their nails to avoid scratching or aggravating sensitive skin.
- Avoid excessively hot water. Recommend washing with lukewarm water, as high temperatures can harm the scalp barrier and exacerbate irritation.
- Reduce heat when blowdrying. Encourage clients to use a low-heat setting when drying the roots, as excessive heat can contribute to skin dryness and itching.
- Choose comfortable, breathable headwear. Recommend hats made from comfortable, breathable materials and encourage regular washing to minimise the build-up of sweat, oils and product residue.
- Minimise friction and irritation. Advise avoiding tight-fitting or itchy hats that rub against the scalp or trap excess heat and moisture.
- Be mindful of potentially irritating products. Encourage clients with sensitive scalps to minimise the use of fragranced dry shampoos, abrasive scalp scrubs and heavy essential oils, which may worsen irritation.
- Incorporate an overnight scalp serum. A soothing overnight treatment can help support scalp comfort. Our Overnight Scalp Barrier Serum is a great option, formulated with aloe vera extract, witch hazel, piroctone olamine and lactic acid to complement a targeted scalp-care routine. For stubborn flakes or build-up use a weekly exfoliating a scalp mask.
- Nutritional impact. Sugary and spicy foods, as well as alcohol and full fat dairy products can prove problematic for some individuals with existing scalp conditions.
Managing Winter Static
- Maintain adequate conditioning. Encourage clients to use a suitable conditioner after every shampoo, alongside a leave-in conditioner or smoothing serum or oil where needed. Conditioning agents, including certain silicones, oils and cationic ingredients, help reduce friction between hair fibres and can neutralise charge.
- Choose hair-friendly winter accessories. Recommend hats with a smooth lining, as they combine a relatively smooth surface with a lower tendency to generate static, although be wary of synthetic fabrics: polyester satin, for example, may still generate static despite its smooth surface.
- Use a suitable comb or brush. Recommend a good-quality, smooth-surfaced anti-static comb or brush and gentle detangling techniques. Avoid vigorous brushing, which can increase friction and contribute to static build-up.
- Consider indoor humidity. Where indoor air is particularly dry, using a humidifier may help reduce static build-up. Maintaining a comfortable indoor humidity level can benefit both hair and skin during the heating season.
Damage control
Even if your clients are yet to notice a scalp problem, prevention is key, especially at a time when clients may find themselves relying more heavily on heat-styling tools. Encourage them to invest in a quality heat protectant spray or serum, ensuring it is applied evenly throughout the hair rather than just to the top layer. Many clients either apply too little product or fail to distribute it thoroughly, which can leave sections of the hair inadequately protected.
The level of protection achieved can vary depending on the formulation, application and condition of the hair, so a medium to low heat is preferable and high heat should never be directly applied to soaking wet hair.
Incorporating an intensive conditioning treatment into their weekly routine can also help improve softness, manageability and resistance to breakage. For clients with chemically processed or damaged hair, bond-building treatments may provide additional support by helping to improve the hair fibre’s internal chemical composition and reduce the effects of damage.
If your clients are extending the time between washes during the colder months, they may be more inclined to wear their hair tied back. Encourage them to opt for loose, low-tension hairstyles and avoid tight ponytails or buns that place excessive stress on the hair fibres and follicles. Repeated tension can weaken the hair over time, leading to breakage and, in some cases, traction alopecia.
Gentle handling is always key to prevent breakage when brushing and detangling, paying particular attention to fragile areas around the hairline and the mid-lengths and ends. Using a suitable brush or wide-tooth comb, working from the ends upwards and avoiding forceful pulling can help minimise unnecessary mechanical damage.
Inevitably, winter will cause havoc for a large number of your clients, but armed with the right information, you can turn it into an opportunity to showcase your skillset.
